Trip Reports

Khumbu Climber - 3 to 29 Oct '08

Written by Leader Terry Moore, October 2008

An amazing spell of good weather for 3 ½ weeks ensured that all peaks were climbed and that the Cho La pass was crossed with ease. Our small group of 5 climbers and 9 Nepali support staff enjoyed a variety of accommodation in lodges and tents on our spectacular journey through some of the world’s highest mountains.

Our journey started on 4th October after a short flight into Lukla airstrip, where we experienced the only unsettled weather of the trip. Above Namche Bazaar (3440m) the weather improved giving cool clear mornings just about every day. After completing our acclimatization trek in the Khumbu region we all climbed Pokalde Peak (5806m/19,048ft) on 11th October, though views from the summit were quickly obscured as boiling clouds quickly drifted up the Khumbu. This snow free summit provided easy scrambling from our high camp nestled by some small lakes on the eastern slopes.

Our group comprised of Kevin (English), Angela (Irish), Graham (Scottish), Hamish (surprisingly English!!) and me (Welsh), so full of national pride we fought our way through the crowds of western travellers (mostly on route to Everest case camp and beyond). Our expert and well travelled Sherpa climbers Phura Gelzen (Sirdar) and Fuchetar Sherpa both worked hard to see that we ate well and enjoyed our time on the treks and mountains.

After summiting Pokalde Peak, Graham developed an upset stomach and was unable to gain sufficient strength to attempt Island Peak, though he did take part in the Travel Trivia quiz at Chhukhung. This frequent test of the brain matter at lodges allowed me to check on their acclimatisation progress. I found this hard to quantify as Angela, although the fastest and brightest player in the group was in fact the slowest on the hill (at least uphill). This confusion of assessment was matched only by discussions on the contents in the book “The Ascent of Rumdoodle” that was passed around the group.

On 16th October Hamish and Kevin climbed Island Peak (6189m/20,305ft) with our two Sherpas while I escorted Angela off the mountain after weakening near the snowline. The wind was fresh on the summit though the views were outstanding and after meeting up with Graham again in Chhuckhung we continued on down to Dingboche for a well earned rest day.

Our next objective was Lobuje East (6119m/20,075ft) which commands excellent views of Everest and many fine peaks in the Khumbu area. At our high camp by an idyllic lake shared only with a few groups we prepared ourselves for an early morning start. Unfortunately Angela was unable to join us so the remaining group set off to climb the sharp snowy ridge early on 20th October. We were blessed with excellent windless weather, with climbing less crowded than for Island Peak. Graham sported his St Andrews flag and we stayed on the summit for awhile enjoying the warm sun and fine views.

On 21st October we trekked over the Cho La Pass (5420m/17,782ft) in a cloudless day towards the Gokyo Lakes by the lunar landscape scenery of the Ngoumpa Glacier. Snow leopard footprints were sighted on the pass along with choughs and ravens scavenging as numerous trekkers passed through. The following day we all ascended Gokyo Ri (5300m/17,385ft), a short walk from the small settlement of Gokyo and enjoyed stunning views of Everest’s’ northern slopes, Cho Oyu and a panorama of peaks that stretch from the Khumbu to the border peaks of Tibet. This prime location was free of snow and we all descended content and pleased to be breathing less rareified air at lodgings at Machermo (4410m) in the Dudh Koshi valley.

By way of Namche Bazaar for apple pie refreshments a happy expedition returned to Lukla to celebrate our last night on the mountain with our excellent support staff by attempting to dance in tune with Nepali rap and folk music. Our return flight to Kathmandu gave us breathtaking scenery of the Himalayan mountains before descending into the busy city. The only incident that drew blood was by myself after a fall in a well known restaurant in Kathmandu following too much food and wine. I will never forgive the waiter for letting my chin hit the ground first! A bad end (for me at least) to a great journey of trivia, fine climbing, good company and outstanding scenery.

Terry Moore, expedition leader « Previous report | Next report »

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