Trip Reports

Manaslu 2008

Manaslu
Trip Report

Written by Leader Adele Pennington, October 2008

Leaders: Adele Pennington; Tomaz Jakofcic; Chris Groves.
Base Camp Manager: Mara Larson
Team members: Alan W; Phil T; Ron R; Adam P; Michael P; Andrew M; Helen D; Geoff C; Ian C; Gordon B; John B and Jeremy (Bunter) A.

The Jagged Globe Manaslu team members arrived in Kathmandu on the 24 August 2008. Forty-eight days later the last of the team members departed Nepal, whilst Mara Larson and Phil T set off on trek again. Now back to the reality of everyday life, the team are able reflect on their adventure of the past 7 weeks.

It was not until mid-July that we knew a permit for Cho Oyu was not going to be made available in reasonable time and Jagged Globe Managing Director, Simon Lowe offered the team the option of trying Manaslu (8,163m), the world's eighth highest mountain. Amazingly, Simon and the Jagged Globe staff were able to organise the expedition in this short time frame, including helicopters to transport the team and equipment to base camp. Oblivious to all the behind the scene plans, leader, Adele Pennington was enjoying a Bolivian Climber expedition and only heard on 1 August that she was to lead a team to Manaslu instead of Cho Oyu! Wow! On 24 August most of the team gathered at London Heathrow Airport. The bubble of excitement was evident and the constant banter started straight away. Adam in his down attire and big boots blended in well with the rest of the team who had chosen more of a trekking style attire. Poor Adam!

With over 100Kg of excess baggage, we were soon on our way. At 7pm on 24 August we arrived at the Summit Hotel for our Puja only to be told we were flying to Pokhora at midday the next day. The team soon swung into action making their final preparations and the permit was granted by Ministery of Tourism. By 1.00pm on 25 August we were manhandling thousands of kilos of luggage to our next destination, except Geoff who was still without his luggage as we awaited its arrival from Dublin. Soon we were bouncing through the clouds of the monsoon to Pokhara where umbrella purchases boomed on our arrival. For the next day and a half no one was going anywhere as the monsoon rains flooded the town. It did however allow us time to finally acquaint ourselves with all our bags.

Waiting in dismay on our second day in the rain we got a call from the airport and were hurried to our big (MI17) helicopter to take off. Within an hour we were sat in our seats as the big bird shook and rumbled off the ground. We skimmed the surface and bumped our way through the clouds, some more nervous than others. As we circled a small field three times we realised all was not well, but before we had the chance to ask we were down perched in a corn plantation with a precipitous drop to one side.

Maps and GPS£s were produced as the pilot and I tried to calm the locals down. The helicopter company agreed compensation for the damage and we hired porters to transport the loads the 7km to where we should be. Everyone was pleased to be on firm ground and had no complaints about walking the rest of the journey to Samagoen, our temporary base camp. The next few days were spent acclimatising and we even took a weekend break to a teahouse at Samdo to see if we could get to the Tibetan border.

On 2 September we set off to advanced base camp (ABC) through the lush vegetation to the barren rocky landscape at 4,860m. Soon ABC became home and our daily routine was established. With good weather, we got our first real glimpses of our mountain and embarked on an acclimatisation programme that went exactly to plan. Everyone in the team contributed to making ABC a comfy place to be. Geoff and Mike with their technical knowledge of electrics ensured we had enough power for afternoon matinees. Andrew organised us all for buffet style dining. John entertained us with his jumper and sun tan lotion make up, Ian kept us going with cards, whilst Helen started to show her true colours with the poker games. Alan busied himself with his new Gortex jacket, whilst Bunter kept daily records of expedition life and Ron demonstrated the art of being laid back. Phil amused himself and everyone else as he waited for his birthday, Gordon kept a watchful eye as Mara desperately tried to keep the troops in line.

Within a few days we had been for our first visit to Camp 1 and had slept there for two nights. Our Sherpa team, who had fixed the route to Camp 1, were now ready to fix to Camp 2. Adele accompanied them, pushing the so-called 'autumn route' on the right of the traverse. They returned exhausted but pleased with their efforts, only to be told that other teams wanted to go leftwards. Seeing the advantages of this, but requiring four ladders to complete, we conceded and let another team do some work, assisted of course by our climbing Sirdar Mingma. A plan was hatched at base camp for our ascent to Camp 2 (6,700m). Chris and Tomaz went to Camp 1 ready to receive the team and help the Sherpas, but unfortunately the weather turned and snow buried the camps. Chris and Tomaz stuck it out and kept us all informed of the Sherpa's progress. Four days later the team made it up to Camp 1, but again bad weather stopped play and it was not until the day after the team could set off to Camp 2. Heavily laden, the team made a tremendous effort through the ice fields and up the couloirs to Camp 2. Adam, who had been suffering with a cold and a tummy bug returned at 6,400m, but the rest of the team hauled themselves into camp. Brews were being made as we received an urgent radio call came from Mathias (The Amical team Guide). From the crackled message it was evident that a storm was on its way, threatening to dump 70cm of snow. Without delay, a decision was made to descend back to Camp 1. A sense of urgency adrenalised the team and within 2 hours we were all safely back at Camp 1, though not without a couple of crevasse rescues for Helen and Gordon!

The first strikes of lightening lit up the sky and by 8pm the snows started to cover the tents. The forecast had been spot on and we were relieved to have made the right decision. In the morning, all the members, Sherpas and guides roped up in teams and descended in deep snow and white out conditions to ABC. The storm continued for next 8 days and ABC was turned into a winter wonderland. Unfortunately for some, time had run out and they had to leave the expedition, but for others, the sun in the sky promised a forthcoming summit bid. On 29 September, the now reduced team set off for their final push. Spirits were high but were dampened by the news that we had lost our Camp 2. Despite efforts by the Sherpas to use avalanche probes to locate the tents, it was felt that they were buried at least 3 metres below the surface. For a few minutes our Sherpa team thought it might be over, but with some mental calculations and some extra effort, we knew we could re-establish a camp with the equipment we had left. It would, however, mean some discomfort of three to a tent and the team members carrying some extra loads. Determined to carry on, the team soon got stuck into digging out tents at Camp 1. In light of the destructio, we had an extra day at Camp 1 before moving up to Camp 2. The move to Camp 2 seemed easier than last time and we were blessed with excellent weather.

Helen unfortunately was not well and it was decided that she should go no further. That night the sound of the wind kept everyone awake and the next morning all the hard work of Sherpas breaking trail had been demolished. A delayed start saw us leaving camp at 9.00am and after another delay as the slopes to Camp 3 were tested for avalanche and ropes were fixed, we made the difficult decision to return to Camp 2. We knew that if the winds continued to blow or we had more snowfall, our summit push would be over. There was silence in camp reflecting the mood as we all prayed for a lucky break.

That night no snow fell and the winds abated. An early start in the morning ensured that all the team were at Camp 3 (7,400m) by early afternoon. With oxygen to help some sleep and rest we ate and made sure everyone was rehydrated. It was now time to rest before the 2.00am wake up call. Again we listened for bad weather but the stillness just meant that the gurgling of members' sleeping on oxygen was the only sound to disrupt sleep.

At 2.00am the roar of stoves soon developed into a rumble of grunts, as everyone got ready. The night was still and cold and we all set off in a tightly-knit team. The Sherpas and myself watched each team members' eyes as we made good progress up the easy angled slopes. A few threatening clouds disappeared as dawn arose and by 9.08am all members and Jagged Globe Sherpas were on the top*. Wow! We had made it! By 4.30pm we were all back at Camp 2, even though Bunter had to be physically pushed down the hill. The enormity of our efforts left us struggling to brew up and for some became just too emotional (Girls do cry).

The following morning we packed up with the Sherpas and took a more relaxing stroll to Camp 1 where the rest of our Sherpa team greeted us with hot juice. Finally we gathered enough energy to move down to ABC where Helen had duly decorated our mess tent. A shower rota was made and soon base camp life was re-established. Before we knew it we were running down to Samagoen to be eaten by bed bugs, but to enjoy the warmth and beer of the Teahouse. The following day with the news that our helicopter was involved in a rescue, we took to abandon the Teahouse and sleep on the helipad. Finally on the 8 October at 9.40am our big green bird flew in to take us back home. Nervous after our first flight, we held onto our Puja stings as we took off and returned to Kathmandu. A truly amazing adventure that made some of us very late for tea!

Without the Sherpa team no-one would have summited Manaslu this season. Their strength and willingness to push out the boat was awe inspiring. Thank you to Mingma Tsri Sherpa; Nima Gyaljen, Pema Tsering; Pema Tsering; Pemchhiri, Tsering Pemba; Phurba; Ang Dawa; Tashi, Pasang Kami; Thundu and Pema Tharki, our Sirdar. Our cook team produced the finest food that most of us had ever eaten on expedition so thank you to Tenzing, Lakpa, Wangdi, Dawa, Bale and Pasang for have such a fine tuned Kitchen.

Finally a special thank you to Simon Lowe, the Jagged Globe staff and Summit Trekking who set up the expedition and supported us all the way through.

*Note: The 2008 team reached the foresummit of Manaslu.

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