Trip Reports

Khumbu Climber - 10 October to 6 November '15

Summit of Island Peak, October 2015
Trip Report

Written by Leader Jamie Holding, November 2015

A joint team of clients for the autumnís Island Peak and Khumbu Climber expeditions proved to be a winning combination. A false landing at Kathmandu, when the pilots literally opened the throttle and pulled the stick back, returning us to refuel at Dehli, wasnít the smoothest arrival in Nepal, but we eventually gathered in the Summit Hotel.

Ten clients, three with previous Himalayan experience made the bleary-eyed morning taxi ride to catch our flight to Lukla 2840m. Once at Tara Lodge, it felt like we were really underway, beginning with an easy downhill stroll to Phakding 2610m. Briefing the team, I emphasised what experience shows to be the most important elements to peak success; acclimatisation; an itinerary that promotes gradual acclimatisation; team work and looking out for one another; support from the Sherpa team. My leaders role was simple, to remain mindful of these key elements and convince members to trust the process. Personally, I remain guided by the late, great, Roger Baxter-Jonesí hierarchy of Himalayan climbing ìcome back, come back friends, get to the topî. I havenít forgotten the natural elements, weather and mountain conditions, but they remain in the lap of the Godís.

An approach trek routine was established ñ bed tea, washing water, breakfast, de-camp, and on the trail up Khumbu. Clouds gathered, fundamentally for Keith, who despite previous summit success on Kilimanjaro, took the sensible decision to head home after a rest day in Namche. I hope he gets another chance to fulfil his Himalayan dreams. One of our Porterís had to head home too, on hearing of his young daughterís death in a storm. A sombre sense of perspective enveloped us all.

The Island Peak members had their own Sherpa support team, required for their independent return journey. Onwards and upwards to Deboche 3800m and Dingboche 4350m, no degree of separation was evident walking the trail. Our Sherpaís mantra ìbistaari, bistaariî, meaning ìslowly, slowlyî, kept the group focused, helping generate a cohesive, sociable team.

It would have been hard on first acquaintance to pick out the devastating effects of Nepalís major earthquakes only months earlier. Trekking group numbers were significantly down, yet adventure tourism remains the economic driver of recovery and development. The real hardships will be in remote communities, struggling to rebuild, their infrastructure and their lives, far removed from touristsí eyes. Compared to last autumn in the Khumbu, I could see the damage to buildings and stupas and numerous landslips. There was much reconstruction in every settlement and ever-present, indomitable Sherpa spirit.

Our first peak was Pokalde 5806m. Base camp at 4900m was idyllic. With terrain to rehearse our fixed-rope tactics. The move to high camp 5400m was a struggle for those acclimatising more slowly. Batu, Sue and Adrian recognised the wisdom of staying put, trusting the process, keeping Island Peak as the prize. The climbing Sherpas moved up a gear, leading us safely and effectively, up snow-covered boulders and a rocky scramble, tougher than all expected, to an airy perch. Peak time for Ady, Davie, Chris, Allan, Matt and Dewi, thanks to Pemachhirig, Mingma, Chyote and Lakba. Scuttling down to high camp for tea and soup, a quick pack up and downwards to Chhukhung 4730m to recover. A long and satisfying day.

For all of us Island Peak (Imja Tse) 6189m was the highest objective. Base camp at 5000m was a stroll, the weather was stable, with no sign of the forecasted snow showers. High camp 5400m was a short steep pull and we faced an afternoon of simple rest and preparation. The cook boys thrust a brew through the tent flaps at 1:30am and we were soon, slowly, shuffling off to get to grips with the gully scramble. Chyote patiently guided Sue, Lakba urged Adrian onwards, Mingma took Ady, Davie and Chris, and Pema led the way with Batu, Allan, Matt and Dewi. In the light of dawn we donned crampons and roped up for the glacier, heading off on a perfect snowy trail.

Two lines stretched up the head wall to the summit ridge, with intermediate snow-stake anchors, and a steepening slope. The front runners clipped in and proceeded to slowly gain height. Near catastrophe was avoided, as Ady grabbed his toilet paper, almost blowing out of reach of his crouching form, the consequences too dreadful to contemplate. After such relief, the summit ridge was a wonderful promenade. The panorama was stunning. Lhotse and Nupste, seemingly in touching distance, but looming massively above us. Makalu appearing coy and Ama Dablam brazen, as always. The summit team photo wasnít quite complete, Sue still determinedly on her way up, the perfect excuse for me to linger longer, revelling in the grandeur, the calm conditions and the knowledge that we had achieved a peak performance. The job wasnít entirely complete, the descent needed concentration and no little effort. Dewi did me proud with an efficient fixed rope descent. Then to cap it all, Yak girl, Mingma Lo, scrambled up the initial gully, to relieve Sue of her rucksack. Awareness for others and team work at its best.

A return to Dingboche 4350m the following day was the point where the Island Peak members of our team were to head down the Khumbu valley for home. Pema took charge and we waved them off, then scampered away ourselves, but only as far as the Lodge showers and the Himalayan Bakery. Team discussion centred on a rest day or continuing on to Lobuje East 6119m. With a recovery afternoon, I advised a continuation, as the weather was with us.

Chyote led us over to Lobuje base camp, followed by an easy day to high camp and a further chance to recover. An early start in moonlight had as casting shadows on the rising slabs, with Mingma leading us on the cairned scramble. At the glacier he raced ahead with a Sherpa from the only other group on the mountain, their job to fix the summit slopes with ropes. Dawn brought views of Everest and a crisp approach to the lines being set, weaving up and away to the East Summit. Perfect conditions, not a breath of wind and a summit hour drinking in the views. A steady slide down the lines, retracing our route and we were soon back in high camp, and later down to base.

The Cho La was the final key crossing to our Khumbu, lollipop-shaped circuit. At 5330m itís a high pass through the mountains and would give us a memorable day from base camp to Dragnag 4700m. Once there we knew we would complete the circuit with a down hill trek to Namche and Lukla. A few high clouds suggested a change in the weather to come and within hours of our arrival in Dragnag, the first flurries of snow blew in. Overnight, our tents got a white covering and it was obvious to all that only downhill options were possible. We chose a short day Machhermo, following the porters in high spirits. High jinx at the Lodge followed lunch, a giant snowman, with a preposterous appendage, and a grand snow ball fight. Everyone was round the Lodge fire that evening, a very unified team.

A gradually descending trail led towards Phorste Tenga, dropping below the snowline through the Rhododendron forest, before a steep hike to Mong and an easy trail to Namche. The porters seemed as eager as us to get there, tripping along. Davie and I took up the challenge, our light loads and 6000m acclimatisation versus their youth, excessive burdens and generations of genetic adaptation. It was an even match, with a lung-busting, sprint to the final stupa leaving us gasping and laughing.

Namche was a chance to celebrate, Daphneís was the venue. One way or another, everyone survived to emerge during the following day, though how Chris ascended the hill to the Sherwi Khangba camp, in the dead of night, no-one knows! A catch-up with the outside world on Everest Bakery WiFi and the Rugby World Cup Final on TV concluded the day.

The walk to Lukla could have been an anti-climax, it wasnít. We met Chyoteís son Pertemba, headed for Ama Dablam, with old friends from last year. Herman Helmerís Backerei in Phakding shouldnít be missed ñ the best bread in the Khumbu. And finally the party at Tara Lodge was something else, thanks to Ady leading the celebrating porters, on the dance floor, Gangham style! We had come back, come back friends, and we even got to the top. Thanks to the fantastic support of our Nepalese team mates and the blessings of the weather Gods.

Jamie Holding
British Mountain Guide (IFMGA)
Expedition Leader

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