Trip Reports

Khumbu Climber - 13 October to 9 November '12

Written by Leader Andrew Chapman, November 2012

After a long flight to Nepal via New Delhi the team of Lynden, Alan, Martin, Thomas, Geoff, Isabel, Ian, met up in Kathmandu with Thomas from Norway, Melissa from Australia and Lorraine and Andy from Austria. After a short night’s sleep we boarded a fast flight to Lukla, where we met our Nepalese staff led by Sridhar Nima Temba; an highly experienced Sherpa leader with over 20 years of Everest expeditions, 8,000 on K2 and (which impressed Lorraine the most) a film extra in “Seven Years in Tibet” with Brad Pitt!

In probably the best weather I have ever experienced in Nepal at this time of year, we journeyed up the Khumbu to our first mountain, Pokalde. 7 members summited this in around 4 hours from a high camp at 5400m. Unfortunately, Geoff and Isabel were feeling under the weather and descended to Base Camp. Martin did well on Pokalde and later summited the other peaks.

Sadly after Pokalde, Isabel descended to Dingboche and on to Periche where, on advice from the doctor at the HRA post, she returned to Kathmandu and subsequently, the UK. The rest of the team journeyed on to Island Peak Base Camp in preparation of our second ascent of the three peaks in the Khumbu valley. Geoff also joined us at base camp. He sadly did not climb the peaks but was well rewarded with an outstanding trek over the Cho La and ascent of Gokyo Ri; a fine effort for him.

On Friday 26th October in cold but stable weather, we set off for Island Peak from high camp. After 2 ½ hrs of scrambling we reached the crampon point, roping up in around 90 minutes we reached the final head wall leading to the summit ridge. 8 members reached the summit at 9am- a big effort for Melissa but she got there! This was my 7th ascent of Island Peak since 1991 and a lot has changed on the mountain since then. After some amazing views, an abseil descent and a straightforward walk down to high camp, we packed up and returned to Base Camp.

Next morning, we packed up and were in Dingboche for lunch, a shower and an afternoon of relaxing and drinking tea. We journeyed on to Lobuche Base Camp; an excellent and pleasant camp with spectacular views of nearby Taboche and Jobo Lhaptshan - two difficult looking 6000m peaks. From yet another high camp, we set of on a slightly warmer day for the summit of Lobuche east. After a superb rock slabs and scrambling, we reached the snow ropes which were fixed by climbing Sherpa’s Tenzing and Dawfry. I have worked with Dawfry three times in the last 2 years. At 24 years old, he is fast becoming a highly skilled and experienced climbing Sherpa who is well capable of more technical expedition in the future. The fixed ropes went on and on but eventually we reached the false summit. Sometimes it is possible to safely traverse to the main summit but sadly due to a crevasse and the unstable looking ridge this was not the case this time. The group were happy with the fantastic views and a descent followed to high camp and on to Base Camp.

Splitting up our equipment, some gear returned to Lukla down the Khumbu valley and we trekked on over the Cho La pass to the delightful small village of Gokyo. Reaching the top of Gokyo Ri we were rewarded with views of Cho Oyu and Everest’s south west face and north ridge. The journey home went via Photse Bridge and Namche Bazzar and on to Lukla. After a Sherpa party and some very different dancing, we boarded a twin otter for the teeth clenching flight back to Kathmandu after a spectacular and incredible month in the Khumbu valley with superb Sherpa support team members and yes, the weather also played ball!

Andy Chapman November 2012 « Previous report | Next report »

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