Trip Reports

Khumbu Climber - 6 Oct to 2 Nov '17

Written by Leader Chris Groves, November 2017

So, we begin as usual, with a late afternoon meeting at Heathrow. Having just had a few weeks of working with 10 year olds I arrived well over an hour earlier than required to re-read my admin notes and change mode to Expedition Leader. However, a change of plan was immediately required as I was greeted with several trolleys of JG kitbags parked outside the bar. During quick “hellos” I was informed the check-in was already open so, after being involved in a bit of staff training at the desks we were successfully on our way, the team heading to the bar while I found a quiet spot for an hour. With just over half the team on the same flights we had to wait until Nepal the whole team came together, and even then, after a mix up with flight tickets it wasn’t until Namche that our team was finally complete.

We quickly settled into a trekking routine of bed tea 0600, pack bags, breakfast (always great porridge, plus omelette and freshly made bread) and walking by 0745. Following the well worn & busy trail heading up the Dudh Koshi valley, slowly gaining altitude while always on the lookout for a bakery, Wi-Fi and quality bathroom facilities. We had to wait a couple of days, but on our acclimatisation walk up to the Everest view hotel (& round for cakes at Khumjung) we got our first views of the stunning mountain scenery that we’d be enjoying for the next few weeks.

Preparations continued, with a new altitude record some as everyone ticked 4850m above Dingboche. Then after hot showers we were ready to move up to Pokalde basecamp and escape the EBC crowds. A strenuous morning walk was rewarded with even better views over to Ama Dablam and an afternoon of fixed rope practice. A short but steep morning the following day saw the team settled into high camp below the final climb, we resisted temptation to go straight up as it didn’t look too far and watched a few lone figures already enjoying the views from the top.

Summit morning was perfectly still and relatively warm for the rocky ascent. Thankfully, everyone was very steady on their feet and precise footwork meant loose rocks stayed put as we slowly moved upwards. High on the summit ridge, in the earlier morning sun, nobody minded waiting a short while for the ropes to be fixed by Sherpas Gyan, Ramesh & Lila. An exposed traverse high above Dingboche before a short climb straight up to the top. Nothing too hard but, with the consequences of a slip, all were happy to practice the new fixed rope skills. 2 hours after setting off everyone was sat on the top of Pokalde (5,806m) - back on plan!

After our success and in great weather, we descended to basecamp then onto Island Peak the following day. Surrounded by towering snowy peaks it really felt as if we were in the heart of the mountains. After enjoying a relative lie-in we moved up the slopes to high camp.

Tales had already been circulating of ladders needed to cross a crevasse, Sirdar Nima informed us that there were in fact 4 ladders tied together to span a gap. Just the mention of ladders had already got Joyce worried and despite my, Nima & husband Bruce’s efforts Joyce couldn’t be persuaded to even go up for a look so they started their 37th wedding anniversary trying to sleep through rest of us getting ready to leave at 0130.

With one summit already under our belts we made swift progress up the rock rib, overtaking other groups on the way up to the glacier. Crampons were speedily donned and as 3 rope teams, still in the dark, a short fixed rope climb led quickly to the thankfully relatively straightforward ladder crossing. With ever brightening skies a glacier plod followed to the in-situ fixed ropes on the head wall. Hard work followed but as the angle eased it was only 15m to the summit, Island Peak (6,189m), Mike arriving first at 0700. Steve & (super) Gordon quickly followed then Adam, Stu, Paul & Laurie with Francois and Aidan bringing up the rear just over an hour later. Sadly, John suffering from a viral infection turned back with Gyan less than 100m from the top. The team reassembled back in high camp just after 1200 for soup before the descent back to basecamp.

After several reports of the “best sleep yet” we leisurely returned to the delights of Dingboche and a well earned rest day. Unfortunately, after a call home Francois needed to return to the UK asap. A heli was booked and everyone was stunned that in less than 30mins Francois was in the air heading home.

Well rested, clean and full of coffee & cake we briefly joined the hoards heading up the main valley before leaving them at the river crossing at Dugla as we continued west, up and round to our next sunny basecamp. With the team now well into the routine it took little effort to move up to high camp and prepare for the last major summit, Lobuche (6,119m). The weather also appeared to know what to do, setting off at 0145 with no wind it was going to be another amazing day. Again, very proficient footwork from the team meant we made great progress up the slabs then fixed ropes to reach the snow. Bruce, feeling dizzy & cold realised it wasn't going to be his day and headed down c.5500m, again, Gyan missed out on a summit.

An amazing solo effort from Ramesh saw him fixing (& later removing) c.325m of rope to still beat Mike in a final race to top, 5hrs. With the remainder of the team joining them by 0715 the only real problem was that the sun was quite low so trying to get the perfect summit shot with Everest in the background was impossible. The long way down was hard work as 100% concentration was need, but eventually, 10 hours after setting off everyone was safely back in high camp. Then after repacking headed down to basecamp. “Better views than Island Peak, but much harder”.

Another long day followed as we crossed the Cho La on a very busy trail with most people coming the other way. Overnighting at Dragnag we bumped into Mungo & Kerry but mysteriously not their 3 passes, 3 peaks team. Then, just a short morning upto the bakeries and Wi-Fi (& more spectacular views) at Gokyo. Only a very select and elite team of Gordon, Steve and John opted for the early morning ascent of Gokyo Ri (5,300m). But being acclimatised, it only took us 90mins, passing all the crowds, to be reward with some of the best views Nepal.

The weather seemed to change as we descended the valley back to Lukla & on to Kathmandu but it didn’t dampen the celebrations of quite a big night out in Namche which in turn, served as a warm up for the end of trip party with our exceptional Nepali team before departing the mountains for the big city.

A huge thanks to my team of Khumbu climbers, I still reckon is the best trip in the book and couldn't have wished for a better group to share it with. But all the really hard work was carried out by Sirdar Nima, Chef Argen, the Sherpas Gyan, Ramesh & Lila together with the kitchen boys and porters, our success is down to them. Come on!!!

Chris Groves

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